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Non-members can attend events: there's a concert of Sufi music while I am here.But then you venture down a side street, flanked by grimy but grand 19th-century villas in Italian style, its pavements cracked by the roots of banyan trees. For 7p or thereabouts, you can buy chai, spiced with ginger or cardamom. People do everything on the street — washing under standpipes, taking their morning shave with pavement barbers, and having shirts pressed with flat-irons heated over charcoal stoves. For more formal sightseeing, Calcutta Walks has a team of well-informed young guides who lead small groups.